Cute Cesis' most obvious feature is its eponymous castle, constructed by the Livonian Brothers of the Sword, crusaders wanting to build a castle in their new homeland, in the early 13th century. The castle attained its new half-ruined appearance more than 350 years later, when the poor garrison blew themselves up rather than surrender to Ivan the Terrible. A year later, Ivan himself lost a battle for the town, which had been retaken by a desperate alliance of all of his enemies, and which became a turning point against him. Indeed, until recently, the city was mostly known for the battles that have swirled around it. Latvians and Estonians both know the town for the battle fought over it in 1919 during the Latvian War of Independence, when an allied German army changed its mind and tried to seize Latvia for itself (Estonians say they won the battle with Latvian help, and Latvians insist they won with Estonian help). In recent years, the town has transformed into a hip treasure, drawing artists and environmentalists, who are working to turn the town into an example of what Latvia can be.

Quiet Cesis makes a good stopping point between Riga and Estonia. The castle complex (which includes a charming county's country castle) is the main draw, but the small center makes for a pleasant stroll. The main draw for day trips is the Gauja National Park, which covers the "Latvian Switzerland." Within the park you'll find the town of Sigulda, which is perhaps the most popular day trip from Riga, thanks to its forested valley and castles, one of which has a tragic romantic legend, making it popular for weddings.