Two of the city’s main draws lie on opposite ends of the spectrum, with avant-garde socialist monumental architecture on one end, and traditional Ottoman architecture less than half a mile away. Be sure to visit the controversial national library, a series of concrete squares covered in 73 domes of varying size, and a metal frame. This design ties together Byzantine and Turkish traditions with socialist architecture, if you squint at it long enough. Nearby lies an unfinished Serbian Orthodox church, begun in 1995 but in legal limbo since. This sad brick and concrete shell is a reminder of lingering divisions in Kosovan society. For a better idea of the city’s history, visit the Ethnological Museum, a compound of beautifully restored and sumptuously decorated Ottoman homes connected by a garden. This museum focuses on culture and life from the 15th to the 19th centuries. For an idea of earlier lifestyles, visit the Kosovo Museum. Kosovo's largest museum, this institution and its extensive archaeological collection are housed in an attractive yellow building down the street.

Once you’ve soaked up the capital’s many influences, make a day trip to Prizren, Kosovo’s second largest city. With its fortress, mountains, and preserved center, Prizren may also double as the country’s most scenic spot.